Friday, February 16, 2007

Willie goes to Dinner

I was asked to have dinner with some wine nuts the other day. Theoretically they needed a wine expert to help them enjoy the wines more than otherwise they might…..

Well here goes…. Upon entering I was faced with a glass of Jaquesson 1985 Grand Cru Avize. Slightly corked. A bottle of the same house’s 1988 was vastly superior. Then onto the serious kit. Meursault Perrieres Comte Lafon 1997. I wanted to dislike this because the erstwhile proprietaire had treated me and a now famous journalist extremely badly when we helped pick grapes at their vineyard Santenots in 1988. My mate and I were given a bottles of 1981 Santenots half way through a backbreaking morning which has to be the ugliest glass of brown filth that has ever passed my lips. Sadly the Perrieres was sublime. Lots of matiere, pungent with plenty of time left. Then on to a bottle of Chablis Grand Cru Clos Domaine Droin 1985. Sensational depth great finesse and still youthful. I don’t remember too many other whites. As for the reds, those that I recollect drinking were Clos Vougeot Rene Engel 1997. This really jumped out of the glass. Beautifully scented with great length. Musigny De Vogue 1988 was sadly unimpressive. Very 1988 with earthy mean tannins and little give. Clos Vougeot from a negoce 1955 was delicious ethereal stuff. Needed drinking up. Charmes Chambertin 1990 from Christophe Roumier which I thought was dilute, a delicious bottle of Bonnes Mares 1990 from Georges Lignier, full of earthy farmyard scents and plump strawberries and truffles.

A nice but not sensational bottle of Cote Rotie La Landonne 1982. Lovely briary mature syrah fruit but lacking richness perhaps.

Then we were assaulted by Krug 1985 and Krug 1989. Both wines were off the richter scale in combining concentration with massive complexity and yet both were so fresh. The 1985 shded it on the night. And last but not least a rare glimpse of Yquem 1983. Imagine very high quality brain orgasm and triple it. Again it’s the combination of all your favourite exotic fruit white peaches,perfect apricots wrapped in 3-D toffee and caramel with a nutty twist and an injection of supercharged citrus. The 2002 was a baby. It won’t ever get close to 1983 but nor will the price.

I wasn’t on top form the next day, but as a vinous night out it weren’t half bad!!!